In today’s day and age, starting a sustainable fashion brand is no mean feat. From saving up capital to create a collection, to sourcing the right suppliers, manufacturers and partners to pull it all together, it can be a minefield—even for an experienced entrepreneur. From juggling logistic delays to sourcing with an ethical supply chain in mind, launching a clothing label has never been more of a rollercoaster ride.
But these extra demands didn’t daunt Nabilah Islam, founder of independent label One Puram. The dentist-turned-designer’s first foray into the fashion world has been a steep, yet rewarding, learning curve. From uncovering the perfect fabric, to production setbacks, to learning all the moving parts of running a brand, we chatted all about her journey.
Dentistry to design is quite the career switch. Have you always wanted to start your own clothing brand?
From a young age, I’ve always had an interest in clothes and was very particular about what I would and wouldn’t wear. Although I was set on becoming a doctor, which led me to focus on the sciences instead of textiles and graphics in school, my passion for fashion never left. I’ve always been aware of how self-empowering clothes can be.
I distinctly remember university events because of what I wore—from the colourful orange dress on my 21st birthday that made me feel like I’d truly become a woman, to the red dress I wore to hospital job interviews that made me feel I stood out in a sea of grey. Fast forward to today, being able to create clothes and empower women’s wardrobes through One Puram makes me feel so blessed.
Tell us about your journey to launching the label
Despite holding down a full-time career as a dentist, I’ve always made time for my ‘fashion hobbies’: from sketching and sewing projects to browsing fashion blogs and fabric stores online. Although I considered starting a clothing label, I knew that delving into the business of fashion would be a huge undertaking.
When I moved to Jakarta in 2020, I saw it as a fresh start to try something new. The lockdowns and travel restrictions due to the Covid-19 pandemic meant I couldn’t travel back to Singapore as a clinician, which became a catalyst for me to work on a label. I started taking sewing classes again, gaining a greater understanding of what it took to make clothes, the importance of patterns and fit, and the different challenges artisans face during production.
Growing up with fast fashion brands in the UK, I knew early on that the traditional way of producing and selling wasn’t something I wanted to endorse. The more I learned about fashion’s impact on the environment, the more adamant I became about not adding to the problem. My goal became to create a more sustainable label that blended style and substance.
What does the name One Puram mean?
It’s derived from two words in Bengali—’puro’ which means ‘whole’ and ‘gram’ which means ‘village.’ The name One Puram reflects our close work with artisan makers, over factories that mass produce. I source everything I can locally within Indonesia, including our packaging and clothing tags, to reduce our carbon footprint and support the local industry here.
What personal experiences led to you prioritising sustainability in your life and label?
Everyone has a different green journey. For me, creating an ethical brand was important, especially after the tragic Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh, where my father is from. I’ve also always been conscious of environmental pollution, from our streets to our beaches. One particular diving trip to Bali made me realise how much plastic had accumulated in our oceans compared to my previous dive a few years earlier. I’d come up to the boat after a cleanup holding piles of rubbish. But after researching microplastics—35% of which come from synthetic textiles—I realised our pollution problem was more than just the visible single-use plastic.
That’s one of the big reasons why today I stand by natural fibres, not just for their feel on the skin but because of the impact synthetic materials like polyester have on our planet. I was determined to create a more eco-conscious fashion label that didn’t contribute to that impact. These decisions led me to discover TENCEL™ fibres, which provided the right foundation for my creations.
There’s many moving parts to creating a sustainable fashion label. How did you start?
I began with the fabric. Discovering TENCEL™ fibres gave me focus, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I could make voile, sateen, linen, and canvas fabrics with TENCEL™. After understanding the weight and drape of each material, I sketched and imagined the silhouettes, eventually editing down to create the final collection: a variety of dresses, separates, jumpsuits, and a jacket.
The colours within the fabrics inspired our first collection name: Bali Dusk. The prints reminded me of fiery sunsets and dusky skies, with blues, oranges, and pinks merging into the darkness. This beautiful juxtaposition of colours in the sky is something everyone can relate to and appreciate. Since then, we’ve gone on to produce original prints in our Para-Sol and most recent Les Voilles collection.
And how have you approached packaging?
Balancing economic, environmental, and customer appeal in the ‘unboxing experience’ was a learning curve. Initially, I made the mistake of choosing boxes that increased shipping costs globally due to their volume—a decision that didn’t align with sustainability or practicality. One Puram’s shift to minimal packaging has eliminated excess materials, enabling more affordable shipping solutions worldwide.
Shop the Story
Zenith Waistcoat
$185
Palazzo in Mosaic Mirage
$165
Cruise Dress Marine Flora
$225
Cruise Dress Arabesque
$225
We love how form-flattering the silhouettes are!
They were a joy to create. Having lived in the tropics for over a decade, I knew exactly what I wanted in warm-weather clothing: effortless, lightweight silhouettes with flattering lengths and thoughtful details. While we all seek confidence in our clothes, my own insecurities guided me in crafting thoughtful lines and cuts for different body types.
For instance, the wrap-over detail in the Tropez Skirt conceals the tummy, while cap sleeves and crop tops of varying lengths accentuate different areas of the body. Slits in some designs enhance breathability and airiness, crucial in scorching weather. The Zenith Waistcoat, light and airy, serves as an easy cover-up in air-conditioned spaces.
I also aimed to make sizing more forgiving, offering options like elasticated waists and belts for a comfortable fit. The result is a curated collection of looks that I proudly endorse, eagerly anticipating the evolution of our next line.
How did life in Bali influenced your design process?
Living there was the perfect outlet for me. I had the opportunity to truly appreciate the island’s natural beauty, learned to surf, and even fostered a dog. It also allowed me to forge close relationships with workshops and artisans for One Puram. Bali is a hub of innovation, creativity, and artistic talent, supported by a vibrant community of female entrepreneurs whom I regularly connected with. Overall, living there taught me to value simpler pleasures, away from the bustle of big cities and the weight of excessive possessions. I’ve since lived in Jakarta, and am now based back in Singapore.
What do you wish more people knew about how our clothes are created?
I wish more people were aware of how clothes are actually produced. From water wastage and the harmful effects of chemical dyes to labor exploitation, there’s so much hidden from us. Fabric education is crucial too. Many brands still rely heavily on polyester blends and synthetic materials. While the industry is starting to phase these out, ultra-fast fashion brands lag behind.
Through One Puram, I aim to educate customers about making more conscious choices. Together, as a community, we can strive for better practices and awareness.
Through One Puram, I want to do my part to educate customers about making more conscious choices so that we all, as a community, can do better.
What have been your biggest learnings as a first-time fashion entrepreneur?
Coming from dentistry, I didn’t have any formal fashion design training. I had to teach myself everything: industry processes, branding, marketing, finance, strategy, design, and execution. It’s been challenging, but I’ve enjoyed the journey. Initially, I grappled with imposter syndrome, but believing that anyone can learn and pursue their passions has fueled my enthusiasm for tackling new challenges with determination.
I’ve made some missteps along the way. There were printing issues with our Dawn fabric supplier, resulting in defects throughout the fabric roll. The workshop salvaged what they could, and the remaining fabric will be reserved for future projects.
Additionally, I’ve had to switch workshops several times. The first closed down, the second was unreliable, but now I’ve found a workshop I can trust to deliver quality products consistently.
How do you feel the sustainable fashion movement is shifting, in Asia and abroad?
Customers are now more interested and informed than ever before, which is a positive development. However, the rapid growth of platforms like Shein can be disheartening. Nonetheless, I believe established brands, influencers, and everyday citizens are increasingly finding ways to incorporate sustainability into their practices. Singapore, in particular, is a city that embraces independent designers and boasts a growing community of conscientious consumers.
I’m confident that more people will seek out unique clothing from small businesses that prioritise ethical and responsible practices. It’s crucial for brands to conduct research and break down barriers that hinder people from making more sustainable choices, thereby fostering a broader movement towards sustainability.
Globally, we’re seeing the fashion industry appreciate creating quality garments, shopping vintage, clothes swapping, renting, and exploring upcycled fashion. We’re also getting more comfortable with rewearing clothes, which gives me hope that the end life of garments won’t just be sitting in a landfill heap. This shift is a positive step toward a more sustainable fashion approach overall.
Globally, we’re seeing the fashion industry appreciate creating quality garments, shopping vintage, clothes swapping, renting, and exploring upcycled fashion. We’re also getting more comfortable with rewearing clothes, which gives me hope that the end life of garments won’t just be sitting in a landfill heap..
What’s your dream for One Puram?
I believe making circularity a goal in the fashion industry is crucial. Going forward, my hope is to create upcycled deadstock items with disadvantaged communities in Bali, providing them with a source of income. As we grow, I look forward to streamlining our processes and building a dedicated team to help expand the brand.
Overall, I want One Puram to be seen as an alternative to fast fashion brands, offering unique, stylish, limited edition pieces that are also ethically made. It’s important to me that One Puram continues to evolve, embracing new ideas in both thinking and design. I’m excited about what lies ahead for us.
Finally, what advice do you have for aspiring fashion entrepreneurs?
Starting any brand, especially a sustainable fashion business, comes with its constant challenges. Even as a founder-led brand, there are often many people behind the scenes. Timelines can go awry, and managing delays and supplier relationships can be a constant learning curve. Initially, setbacks could be overwhelming, even bringing me to tears. But over time, I’ve learned that not everything is within my control, and things have a way of working out when the time is right.
